Friday, June 01, 2007

Jamaica, Port Antonio


"YO, TOURIST! TAKE ANOTHER SHOT OF ME AND YOUR GONNA GET RAMMED!..
THESE AIN'T PLUMS! I SAID PUT THAT CAMERA DOWN!!"


The wonderful Port Antonio is, like other old safe harbors, undergoing change. The photos will show what cruisers have and still will see when they visit. Not shown in the photos but evident upon arrival, are the hillside homes of the wealthy and huge investment of time and money to procure and develop the most beautiful and rare, by ? (more later)


CHART SHOWING ENTRANCE WE MADE TO WEST HARBOR AND DOCKING AT PORT ANTONIO MARINA TO ENLARGE THIS OR ANY PHOTO, CLICK ON IT. NOTE: THAT THE BLUE AREA IN THE EASTERN AND SOUTHERN PART OF THE WEST BAY HAS BEEN APPARENTLY FILLED IN TO MAKE A "SUPER MARINA..such as the 'HALL OF FAME MARINA IN FT. LAUDERDALE

The entry into Port Antonio by sea is about as straight forward as any mariner could ask for. It is well marked, deep and well protected. The east harbor is not used as it once was, but the West Harbor still is the port to use. The old Banana boat days left structures and land for the export trade, but a once existing marina there has mostly closed-restaurant only now. The Port Authority of Jamaica has taken over the rest of the land around the entire harbor and is developing plans for the future along with a Mega Yacht Marina lessee WESTREC to make this a port for the wealthy.


Food procurement, from the basics to a fairly decent assortment can be had in or near town. On the main street, West Street, there are severaL little grocery stores and vegetable markets, as well as the old Market, near the center of downtown, a block from the old government buildings.

LOCAL eateries are simple places but can serve up some taste food. Gang Gang's was one I decided to try on a hot sweltering day while roaming about town with Dorothy. It was upstairs on a busy street. Locals were eating their rice, beans and chicken, or goat lunches out of styrofoam meal cartons along the screened wall overlooking the street. We opted to sit and eat at a table in the center of the room. A few flys on the table, but oppressively hot even with a ceiling fan. The cook/owner, hustled in the kitchen along with 2 coworkers to keep up with the 'Take Out' crowd, and keep up his supply of freshly cooked food. Fires burned high on Wok style pots and big fry pans. The heat in his screened in enclosure must have been extreme, but they worked without a blink. Keep in mind this trio serves from an early breakfast through dinner!


LOCAL SPOT 2ND STREET IN OFF WATERFRONT-2ND FLOOR

Along the waterfront, sales of bananas and other fruit were offered on a daily basis, as well as one gent selling hugh crabs..for $15 dollars US each. They are almost extinct. WE did not buy.



BANANA RASTA MON


Dock boys, usually in their 30's haunted you till you gave a firm NO THANKYOU. One, trying to get me to hire him to clean the bottom of our boat when questioned "how do you do it, what tools do you use, how long do you expect it might take, and how much do you charge" answered most of them reasonably except for the last question. He said "$150 US. !!!! I said "excuse me?" He then said, "well, if it's not too bad, maybe it won't take me as long, so it could be only $100. Mind you his estimate was for 1.5 hours, which I thought reasonable. I smiled and said, this old guy does his own work. Thanks, Goodbye.
Ask first and confirm prices always. 3 weeks later, I hired a guy who I knew was more consciencious and paid Hulk, $50. He worked hard, did a good job and I felt good before hiring him and after, as he dutifully looked after his young daughter as a prize.  Looked like a good father and worked like a good man. Considering the local economy, the price might have been $20, but I let it go, as I was hoping to shove off the next morning to take advantage of a weather window to Honduras.

Navy Island, at one time owned by Errol Flynn, has been privately held and in run down condition for some time. I explored the island in 1989 carefully. It was sold to KC and the Sunshine Band I hear and they offered it for sale ONLY to a Jamaican.  The thought was to put the island back in the hands of a countryman.  I also hear it has gone into the hands of a Jamaican Banker.  Yah!  So what are we going to see now?  I'd bet my last dollar that this Jamaican has no scrupples about country and sells it to the highest bidder!!

Makes a man wonder why he should ever be good or trust another.  Money/Dirtbags rule!

Tell me if I should ever apologize for being wrong.

It appears, the Port Authority of Jamaica has locked this beauty! Seems it will be sold to developers.. Sound like something you have heard of before? Government obtaining precious land then transferring it in one way or another to developers or the very rich? Hmmm, what ever happened to the concept of the government being of the people, by the people and "for the people". Yeah, I know that's a U.S. thing(that is doubtfully accurate) but law here is based on British law.. the similarities though of corruption or dubious leadership stands out to insult the mind.

Outside of town, things change visually. More afluent abodes, better roads(minimally), cleaner air, far less of the rap and Jamaican music-constant beat/rhythm /EXTREME volume of in town bars. We were lucky enough to meet a fine local family that shared time with us. A lovely home on manicured grounds, high up on a hillside is more common to the middle class. Rich are buying up the most valued waterfront or waterview property as everywhere else. Besides a great meal one evening, time was shared aboard our different boats sharing sights and opinions. We were even given a big bag of key limes for our departure....to keep the gin and tonics up to par. :)
Out of town but accessible by 'chartered' cab (It's ALL YOURS) is a wonderful little family restaurant, named WOODY'S. His smiling wife Sherry cooked and served us one night in company with our local friend, and everything about this quaint little place deserves your time to visit. I love ginger ale. Sherry offered us 'complementary with each meal', the best ginger soft drink I have ever had.

DAD TEACHING SONS THE ART OF MACHETE SHARPENING. A nice gentleman who had earlier on worked the cruise ship industry. His smile was constant; the eyes of his son's and the other sub 30 generation gave a different message.



Within walking distance of the dock is much to see. We walked to the top of a local hill, actually quite a steep walk, to take in a view of the harbor from a closed restaurant called Bien View. Another day we explored Titchfield Peninsula, separating the two bays. Remains of an old British fort were still intact and facinating. What is left of housing on the peninsula is mostly highly degraded wooden structures. Folks still live in homes with missing walls or sagging rotted roofs. Some are large old victorians others the size of a small one car garage. Most lean in one direction or another. Only one or two places were somewhat upkept as bed and breakfasts, except it worth noting, they do not serve any food!?

Concerns about safety were no higher for me here than elsewhere. Street smarts needs to be brought along on your journey, no matter where you go-even downtown at home. There were times I was pestered, but a firm NO, with a stare that said the same, ended the conversation. I told Dorothy, "never be intimidated-at least 'don't show it' ". Women will not usually meet a mans glance here unless they are familiar with the gent or are open to advances. Dorothy looks at every one and does not get the concept. Eye contact is an open door for further contact, good or bad.   No eye contact, no contact.

There is Color everywhere and we thoroughly enjoyed Jamaica for what it is.

LOCALS CHECKING OUT us TOURISTS.


I fear that cruisers will be pushed out of accessing this harbor as is happening elsewhere, by the greedy and the wealthy. "What was", is being buldozed by those that have plenty but can't seem to get the idea that the one that has the most toys upon death, is still dead.. No 'Prize". Their prize of bag of toys to brag about is too often a path of physical destruction and further disconnect for those that live simply. I understand progress, but do not agree with the poor or the hard working middle class being pressed back or lifted up with skills that only ensure they become the tools to help the ruling class continue to conquer and then stay the servants of the wealthy.

We hope to return to Jamaica in the future and to Haiti too, once violence there subsides a bit. There is much beauty , good general public and wealthy history to enjoy.

COASTLINE OF JAMAICA IS AS BEAUTIFUL AS ONE CAN FIND. THE COLORS I'M USING DO NOT IN ANY WAY OFFER THE BEAUTY OF THIS PLACE. SOME LOCATIONS SEEM TO REMIND ME OF THE VIETNAMESE SHORELINE, RUSTIC BEAUTY.










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